Room-scale DnD dungeons anyone?

It looks like there are multiple layers printed without feeding filament, which causes these frays to build up. Could it be that the filament clogs after this layer? Or do you see that filament still properly feeds later? This could happen for example due to heat creep and the filament getting too warm/soft in the extruder to properly feed or you trying to feed too fast.

However I can see when any IPv6 begins with 2a02:12xx:: then it’s Swisscom (biggest swiss ISP). But I can’t remember any of their hundreds of IPv4 prefixes.

You might be able to make it much stiffer by adding more of the arms parallel. The force should be consistent when you tighten multiple of them with one screw.

You have to choose the one without AMS color changer: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/a1-mini?variant=41513493627016 It should be 199$

Bambu A1 Mini is on sale. Add a 0.2mm Nozzle and you have a perfect machine for miniatures

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You should ask the creator. Maybe he’s unaware that people can’t post makes anymore or it’s a setting they can change.

Make the movements visible in preview. Most probably it makes the total movement shorter when switching between parts.

Lower speed between the holes because of low acceleration. Because of this more heat is brought into the layer which makes it more shiny. Your nozzle doesn’t reach the same speed on a 20mm line as it does on a 200mm line.

Is it only me or does that CoreXZ kinematic not make any sense? They gain the ability to move in Z in high speed but add ringing etc. in Z direction.

Prints can be scraped using microplane cards (can be made yourself from spring steel with a hammer). I really like this method as it leaves a smooth surface.

Explanation: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a4e9JJkinvk